First: hyaluronic acid classification: hyaluronic acid is divided into high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, conventional molecular weight hyaluronic acid, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and ultra low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
a: High molecular weight hyaluronic acid: molecular weight between 1.5 million and 1.8 million, 1.8 million to 2.2 million;
efficacy: can form a biological moisturizing film on the skin surface, long-lasting moisturizing, can resist PM2.5.
Introduction: The molecular weight of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid is a dense three-dimensional structure, which can evenly cover the surface of the skin to form a breathable film, which reduces the evaporation of moisture inside the skin. At the same time, it resists the external environment such as ultraviolet rays, dust and smog. Skin damage. Compared with the common molecular weight hyaluronic acid, the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a more stable protective film on the skin surface and a longer lasting effect.
Ultra-high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, the molecular part is highly polymerized and folded, which can store more water. It forms a micro-storage pool, which continuously moisturizes the skin and has 24 hours of super moisturizing ability. The cream added with high-molecular HA is more moisturized and elastic after use. High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid has the functions of hydrating and protecting the skin, and is suitable for the development and use of products such as moisturizing, anti-aging and anti-fog pollution. The most important advantage of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid is its good water retention capacity, but its ability to be absorbed by the skin is relatively poor.
Usage: Mainly used in anti-wrinkle, wrinkle, sunscreen cosmetics, the recommended addition amount is 0.05%-0.1%.
b: Conventional molecular weight hyaluronic acid: molecular weight of 1.2 million to 1.5 million; efficacy: hyaluronic acid of conventional molecular weight is an excellent lubricant, and the film forming property is good. It has the functions of moisturizing, thickening and emulsifying.
(1) Hyaluronic acid of conventional molecular weight has a moisturizing effect, and HA molecular weight (glycoside) interweaves into a network and hydrogen bonds with water, which has a strong water retention effect.
(2): Hyaluronic acid of a conventional molecular weight has an effect of resisting wrinkles and removing wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid can make the skin moist and full of elasticity, and exogenous HA supplements the endogenous HA, which has anti-wrinkle and wrinkle-removing effects.
(3): Hyaluronic acid with a conventional molecular weight has a sunscreen effect, which can eliminate free radicals and protect the skin from damage.
(4): Hyaluronic acid of conventional molecular weight has a lubricating effect, and a water-locking film can be formed on the surface of the skin to produce a good smooth feeling and moist feeling.
(5) Hyaluronic acid of a conventional molecular weight has a certain thickening effect.
Usage: Mainly used in general cosmetic additives, the addition amount is about 0.1%, special-purpose cosmetics, the added amount is up to 0.5%
c: Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: The molecular weight ranges from 200,000 to 400,000 and 50,000 to 100,000. It can replenish the skin's effects and leave the skin hydrated for a long time.
Introduction: Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has the characteristics of fast dissolution rate and reduced product viscosity. It can slightly expand capillaries and promote skin nutrient absorption. It has strong wrinkle-removing function, which can increase skin elasticity and delay skin. senescence.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is intermediate between high molecular weight HA and ultra low molecular weight HA. A good product is a skin care product containing hyaluronic acid with three molecular weights and a hyaluronic acid containing only one molecular weight. And can not play the best effect of HA skin care.
Usage: Facial cleanser, mask and other products. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can be selected, mainly utilizing the permeability of HA. The recommended addition amount is 0.1%.
d: Ultra low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: The molecular weight is 5000. Ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid promotes absorption through the skin, has a better moisturizing effect, is anti-aging, and can also repair the skin after sunburn.
Introduction: Relative molecular weight hyaluronic acid, ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid transdermal absorption is better. Transdermal absorption rate is as high as 69.5%. Ultra-low molecular weight HA can repair damaged cells, improve cell activity, reduce external environment damage to the body, eliminate ultraviolet rays, induce reactive oxygen free radicals, enhance cell antioxidant capacity, and enhance skin's UV resistance. The preventive ability of ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can increase the moisture content of the skin, and it can be combined with the large molecular weight hyaluronic acid to coordinate the moisturizing effect.
Usage: The general addition amount is about 0.1%
Second: the considerations for adding hyaluronic acid and the choice of preservatives:
1: The skin care function of HA mainly depends on the molecular weight of HA. Under normal circumstances, the larger the molecular weight of HA, the larger the molecular entanglement, the wider molecular network is formed, and the viscoelastic film is formed on the surface of the skin, which has better moisturizing effect. .
2: Addition of HA, generally in the late stage of emulsification, try to avoid high temperature, generally not more than 60 °C.
3: HA is a high nutrient substance, easy to be contaminated. After dissolving, try to use it once. If the liquid remains, please add this batch of preservative, then store it at low temperature (1-4 °C). The shorter the time, the better. Consider HA dissolves slowly, and HA can be formulated into a certain concentration of solution in advance, but it should be noted that a part of the preservative is added to the formula and conditionally refrigerated. For systems with strict process requirements, sudden cooling will affect the fineness and gloss of the paste. The HA solution can be preheated and added to the product.
4: Preservative choice: try to choose non-cationic preservatives. It is recommended to add preservative before dissolving HA, and pay attention to prevent water pollution.
Third: Introduction to hyaluronic acid production:
Hyaluronic acid was first extracted from animal tissues (cockscombs). Due to the source of raw materials and the cost of production, this method is basically not used. In addition to the individual pharmaceutical-grade companies, this method is also produced on a small scale. . Most hyaluronic acid manufacturers use microbial fermentation to produce hyaluronic acid with high yield, stable raw materials and excellent product quality. The strain for hyaluronic acid fermentation is Streptococcus zooepidemicus. Approximate production process culture, strain expansion, fermentation, extraction, dehydration and drying, powdering and sieving, inclusion, outsourcing, inspection, storage.
Hyaluronic acid fermentation is carried out at a high sugar concentration, as long as the fermentation medium has a higher sugar content. The fermentation cycle is about 18 hours.
Fourth: Hyaluronic acid fermentation broth after fermentation
The extraction of hyaluronic acid, the hyaluronic acid component is mainly pure in the capsule of the bacteria, in the extraction process, first remove some of the fermentation base liquid in the fermentation broth, the bacteria. Then use alcohol to extract hyaluronic acid, pay attention to the amount of alcohol added during the extraction process, and extract the hyaluronic acid to remove the protein. The cosmetic grade hyaluronic acid protein content is not more than 0.01%, and the protein is mainly made by using acid and alkali. Protein denaturation is then removed by membrane filtration. Hyaluronic acid is divided into food grade, cosmetic grade, and pharmaceutical grade. The difference between the three grades is that the food grade has low protein requirements, and the cosmetic grade requires less than 0.01% protein. In addition to the protein requirements, the pharmaceutical grade also controls endotoxin. content.
The dehydration of hyaluronic acid is not a one-step dehydration, powder grade, dehydration step by step, which can avoid the color of the later products, and easy to form large particles, which is difficult to dissolve.
The reference to powdering is that the bulk density is not the same. The intuitive performance is that hyaluronic acid is powder, and some are particles. The granules are generally sifted, the products on the sifter, the granules mentioned here are not hard lumps, and the particle size is relatively uniform, mainly because some customers feel that the granules are used to reduce dust during feeding.
Under the sieve is the powder, the bulk density can be based on customer requirements.
1: The difference between hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate:
Hyaluronic acid is generally formed by the formation of sodium salt. In the post-extraction process, we use alcohol to extract hyaluronic acid. When the alcohol concentration reaches a certain concentration, the hyaluronic acid is added without adding sodium chloride. The acid does not precipitate in the reaction tank, as long as sodium chloride is added to precipitate hyaluronic acid. Therefore, the market is basically sodium hyaluronate.
Why are the same molecular weight hyaluronic acid, how is the viscosity different?
Conventional hyaluronic acid means that the molecular weight between 1.2 million and 1.5 million can be called conventional hyaluronic acid. Because the molecular weight range fluctuates and the viscosity is high or low, try to choose hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight error of less than 50,000. This viscosity is relatively stable.
2: How to make polymer hyaluronic acid?
The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid extracted in the normal fermentation process is between 1.2 and 1.5 million. Some batches appear to be infected, and the molecular weight will be slightly reduced, about 80-100 million. Some parameters can be controlled during the fermentation process, and the molecular weight can be 180. More than 10,000. The low molecular hyaluronic acid is generally extracted by chemical or enzymatic hydrolysis. According to the purpose, after the hyaluronic acid of the conventional molecular weight is hydrolyzed, enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out, and then the pore size of the corresponding membrane is selected for filtration, followed by alcohol extraction. Generally, the low molecular loss is relatively large, and the yield is not high, so the market price is relatively high.
3: How to judge the quality of hyaluronic acid?
How to evaluate hyaluronic acid in this cosmetic application is generally good and poor. Mainly to see the content of some aldehydes. Its content energy value visually shows the content of hyaluronic acid, and it has a calculation formula. In addition, the protein content is small. The larger the particles, the better the reason is because the dehydration did not take off. In addition, it is when it dissolves. The color is not so transparent. It is in the production process that the protein is not well controlled.
Add: A Office Building ,Room 4703,City Center,NO.333,Qimen Road Hefei,Anhui,China