What Kind of Hyaluronic Acid Penetrates into the Skin?
Nov 25, 2021
Hyaluronic Acid Classification and Functions
Large Molecule Hyaluronic Acid
"Large molecules" are probably the most widely used type of hyaluronic acid, as they are capable of capturing hundreds of times their own moisture and are quite good moisturisers.
However, as mentioned above, the molecular weight exceeds a certain limit, which makes absorption very difficult, so this type of hyaluronic acid is more often used as a moisturising ingredient.
While moisturising, some large molecules of hyaluronic acid can also have a thickening effect, which can have a noticeable impact on the texture and feel of the product.
There is now also research and ingredients on 'super large molecular weight' hyaluronic acid that can provide longer lasting moisturisation, again with little ability to penetrate and absorb.
Small Molecule Hyaluronic Acid
"Small molecules" are hyaluronic acid with smaller repeating units and relatively low molecular weight, which can be simply understood as fragments of "large molecules", as production techniques and technologies continue to advance.
It can help to repair and anti-wrinkle after penetration, but not in terms of thickening and moisturising.
Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid
"Cross-linked" is usually an amide-linked hyaluronic acid produced by the condensation of hyaluronic acid and hexamethylene diamine, which can be used in medical aesthetics. Yes, this is what we often refer to as "hyaluronic acid injections" into the dermis of the skin.
Cross-linked hyaluronic acid has the largest molecular weight and is the most difficult to penetrate, so its effect in skincare is to stay in the outermost layer of the skin to moisturise it.
Many people say they feel a film on their face after using products containing hyaluronic acid, perhaps because of the addition of a large molecule of cross-linked hyaluronic acid like sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer.
Hyaluronic Acid After Polypropylene Modification
There is another type of hyaluronic acid that does not rely on molecular weight alone, but rather on the addition of other modifications to achieve additional benefits, such as sodium acetylated hyaluronate.
As the name suggests, this is the product of acetylation of hyaluronic acid. Acetylation gives hyaluronic acid a certain lipophilicity, which enhances its skin-friendly properties, theoretically making it useful both within the stratum corneum and on the skin's surface.
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